Saturday, February 1st
Today I helped my host mom make koki, a
ground up bean paste that you mix with red oil, salt and a bit of pepper. You
wrap it in banana leaves and boil it in a pre-heated pot. I sat and tore long
strips of banana bark to tie the leaf-bean-pudding pouches and asked constant
questions about the French word for kitchen items.
Today I also got to know the neighbor kids
who live in the apartment next to ours, we share a balcony. Loic, the fifteen
year old, is the oldest child I’ve met so far, but there’s a little girl and
three little boys. The littlest boy is just a baby, probably 4 months. I held him
and chatted with Loic for most of the afternoon. Our conversation was made
possible by the translation services of the little girl, an 8 year old with
incredible English. They each got to decide what language to study and Loic
chose French, the little girl English. I think they said she’s studied English
for 6 years, how that is possible when she’s 8 I don’t know. Possibly I
misunderstood the French I was hearing, which is likely with my comprehension
skills. Or the Cameroonian education system is just way better than America’s.
Also possible.
Whenever my French was particularly
unintelligible while talking with Loic, he’d call his little sister over and
make her translate. We were able to find out each other’s favorite months, why
they’re our favorite seasons, favorite colours, and lots and lots more. I love
kids, and I’m not surprised that I love talking to Cameroonian kids. I don’t
feel as self-conscious about my French, and I just have more fun with it.
They’re all adorable and super nice.
Sunday I woke up at 7 am to scrub my
fingers raw washing my clothes by hand. I was wearing my last clean shirt, the
desperation explains the early wake-up call. I’d hoped to go to church, but my
host mom Annie wasn’t feeling well so we plan on going next week. Annie and her
sister Gella are “Evangelique”
Christians, and when we couldn’t go to church Annie put on praise music
instead. She danced around the house and sang, and I joined in singing since I
knew a lot of the English songs. I cooked omelets for breakfast after Annie
instructed me in the use of the gas stove (the whole matches/fire thing still
freaks me out). After lunch I walked around my “cartier” neighborhood with Luic
as my tour guide. He’s fast becoming my adopted little brother/best friend/tour
guide/French tutor, and I am pretty sad because he is gone to school until next
weekend. Annie gave him specific instructions about where to take me and when to return, so that she would know where
I was at all times, which I am pretty sure he completely ignored. He was
supposed to show me the Catholic church, since I’d told Annie I also like
Catholic services, but there was no Catholic church in sight. Instead we ambled
along red roads and avoided the insane traffic and laughed at my French. We did see a mosque, and the call to prayer
was haunting and melodic.
That afternoon Nathalie, the host family
coordinator/unofficial “mom”/counselor of the program had organized a soccer
match for the SIT students and families. I’ve missed African soccer on red
gravel fields so much. It was wonderful. I am as aggressive a player as ever,
but my footwork is entirely gone from my old middle school soccer glory days. I
just ran around energetically and got in peoples’ way and had a fabulous time.
Luic was my stand in family, and played goalie for the opposite team. I scraped
up my knee stupidly when the gravel slipped out from under my feet, but the
blood made me feel a bit bad-ass. As
usual Serge, the program assistant, literally took care of everything, grabbing
my knee and demonstrating how to wash it properly without wasting my drinking
water too much.
Luic and I walked to the top of the “palais
de congress” which has public fields and then a tall building at the top of a
long row of stone steps. The view of Yaoundé was gorgeous, of course.
Then we walked back home and sat on the
deck in the cool of the evening and talked French some more, while I held the
baby of the family. Cameroon is a culture of sharing, and neighbors and friends
share work and responsibility and parenting. Annie and Gella freely chastise
and love the neighbor kids, no problem. I was changing the neighbor baby Onzo
on the first day, and Annie has promised the other neighbor friend downstairs
occasional free babysitting for her little one courtesy of me. Which I am
genuinely totally cool with, more than that. I love babies and I love Africa
babies (they tend to be pretty chill. Also beautiful) and I love integrating
into the culture. Tonight, Annie and Gella borrowed my internet key (looks like
a USB drive but it is plug in internet access you can pay for) because theirs’
ran out, and also my converter for the fridge after their converter broke.
I love it because Cameroonians NEVER ask favors of temporary “guests,” but once you’re in the friend/family circle, sharing is just the way of life. I’m pretty thrilled to be becoming part of that circle.
I love it because Cameroonians NEVER ask favors of temporary “guests,” but once you’re in the friend/family circle, sharing is just the way of life. I’m pretty thrilled to be becoming part of that circle.
Your life is so fascinating. :)
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